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Japan’s former Imperial capital, Kyoto, draws visitors eager to step back into the past: The city’s traditional shrines, temples and scenic outdoors are laden with history and an old-world character.
My own Kyoto experience was a dichotomy of space: Packed into crowds ogling temples, then suddenly completely alone on a mountain trail. It was all worth it, and thanks to an early waking schedule, I was able to experience the highlights without fuss.
Kyoto is a rich and vibrant city quintessential to any trip to Japan. If you are visiting as part of a larger exploration of the country, like I did in 10 days, spending 48 hours in Kyoto will allow you a glimpse of what makes it so lovely.
Getting Around
If you’ve traveled in Tokyo, you’ll remember how easy it is to get anywhere by train. Kyoto has its own established system, but it doesn’t quite cover the same ground. Highlights such as Kinkaku-ji, the famous golden pavilion, require a little extra planning and rides on the bus. Be prepared to walk more.
Templed Out
Have you encountered the phrase “templed out” bandied around in your research yet? It’s a very real phenomenon where sightseers tackle an absurd number of ancient temples, and get weary of them as quick as you can say “But Lonely Planet told me to.”
Don’t overextend yourself to check all of Kyoto’s famous temples off the list, because if you visit without intention, they’ll start to run together. Find two per day that strike your fancy and enjoy them as they are intended: A meditative garden walk, steeped in architecture, history and beauty.
From my two visits to Kyoto, I would recommend prioritizing Tenryuji and Kinkakuji in Arashiyama, and Kiyomizu-dera and Nanzenji in Higashiyama.
Day 1: Arashiyama & Hiking Kibune to Kurama
Arashiyama (West)
This sight-seeing district on the city’s west side is famous for its serene temples and riverside walks in the foothills of the mountains. It’s a fair distance from the city center, and took me almost 40 minutes by train in the morning, but worth the effort.
FIRST MORNING ACTIVITY
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
The region’s most popular site is a lovely walking path flanked with forests of towering bamboo stalks. We started on the eastern end and walked west, passing by the entrance to Tenryu-ji and noting it for later – now was the time to enjoy the grove before the crowds.
At 8 in the morning, the paths were nearly empty and we exchanged expressions of wonderment with another couple who was surprised to find the area was peaceful. Bamboo leaves swirled in the air as they fell from their towers above, and morning light shone through the stalks.
But at 10 am? It’s a different story. We walked the main street behind the grove later in the day, and spotted throngs of crowds pouring in and out of the walkway, packed almost shoulder to shoulder.
EARLY MORNING
Arashiyama Park
Include a walk through this hillside sanctuary after the Bamboo Grove to escape the crowds, or to continue a peaceful morning.
My original choice had been to visit the tea-house, Okochi Sanso, but it was still closed for the morning; we opted to wander around the park instead for a bit.
Alone and enjoying the heavy skies and peaceful sounds around us, we found ourselves at the Arashiyama Park Observation Deck that overlooks the Katsura River. The views here of the river valley were incredible, and we were joined by others watching to see the Sagano Scenic Railway round the bank.
A steep rock path descended the hillside to the waterfront. We took it and strolled along the Katsura all the way to the historic Togetsu-kyo Bridge.
MORNING
Tenryuji Temple
If you are going to do one temple in Arashiyama, this is an excellent choice. One of Zen Buddhism’s five greatest gems, Tenryuji is a shogun-era slice of longstanding beauty, and offers visitors a stroll through a traditional scenic garden with mountain views.
Exploring the interior is a separate ticket, which I would recommend for the experience of soaking in the garden scenery while reposing on tatami mats. There’s also an up-close view of a large painting of a cloud dragon on sliding screen doors.
LUNCHTIME
Saga-Toriimoto Preserved Street
This Meiji-era styled street is historic for its traditional townhomes, now fashioned into stores and eateries. It might be worth a combined detour to see the Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple, but we went only with the intention of grabbing lunch and discovered we had arrived too early for anything to be open.
We were able to browse a store and picked up a nice pair of chopsticks. The 30-minute walk from the Bamboo Grove area was long but a pleasant introduction to gorgeous, upper-class Kyoto homes, sporting neat moss gardens and two-story traditional wood facades. The neighborhood ramen shop we stumbled into was also a nice touch.
AFTERNOON
Kinkakuji
Standing resplendent in gold over a reflecting pond, the “Golden Pavillion” is a photogenic Zen Buddhist temple that tops most visitor’s lists in Kyoto. The three-story building is best glimpsed from a spot by the entrance, but take the path around the back to get a new perspective and a lovely stroll through a traditional garden.
Getting to Kinkakuji requires some walking and a bus ride, and a chunk of transportation time, but it is worth the effort.
LATE AFTERNOON
Kurama to Kibune Hike
Leave the crowds and streets behind you on this half-day mountain pilgrimage to Kurama-dera temple, easily accessible via a train trip from the city and achievable in a few hours of your afternoon on the first day. When my partner and I look back on our trip, this comes up as one of our favorite adventures in Japan, let alone Kyoto.
We departed Kinkakuji via bus and exited at the Demachiyanagi train stop. To be completely honest, we fell asleep on the bus and missed our stop by a few, but enjoyed the walk back along the sunny Kamo River, where joggers, picnickers and tourists lined the banks. From Demachiyanagi, we took the scenic Eizan line to Kurama.
Some sources will suggest hiking this backward to avoid the uphill climb, starting in Kibune and ending in Kurama. Don’t do it! The hike unfolds beautifully as it is intended: A story through shrines, lanterns and pathways to the temple gracing the mountainside, then a gentle decline through a forest at the end. Plus, it’s a great fitness hike!
Start at the red tengu statue and proceed through the towering temple gate up the steps. The lantern-lined pathways lead you by peals of laughter from a nearby children’s nursery, where carp-shaped koi-no-bori flutter in the breeze above you.
Off to the side are waterfalls and mossy stone tori gates.
A view unfolds of a massive pine tree, framed by the gate of the Yuki-jinja shrine. Throw in a coin, ring the bell, bow twice before clapping twice, then bow again to express your respect.
Climb a winding pathway flanked with red lanterns and wooden gates as you ascend. Appreciate your legs, your lungs, and the quiet beauty of the mountainside as you work your way uphill. You’ll approach a platform trimmed with red overlooking a valley of trees, and a temple structure with a deck you can walk out on.
Delicate white flowers and brilliant red lanterns line one of the last stone staircases before the temple.
You’ve made it! Kurama-dera sits proudly in a field of blossoming trees, decked with white globe lanterns and perched on the edge of a sweeping mountain view. We spent time wandering the courtyard and resting, filled with appreciation and rush of energy from the hike.
And it’s not over yet. The actual “peak” of the hike is after passing the temple, designated by a fenced stone marker. The path has transformed again into a wilderness of tall trees and roots. In April, the path was scattered with velvety camelia blooms.
A small shrine stands sentinel in the forest. As we descended down the stone stairs, completely alone, I felt balanced and reflective. The end of the path in Kibune is a red bridge over the creek.
From here, you can walk through the old town to grab something to eat, or start walking back to the Kibuneguchi train station. There is a bus stop along the way to your left, but we had already committed to the 30-minute stroll as an extension of our hike. There are some lovely falls along the side of the road to enjoy, but this trek is a bit awkward overall, as cars and buses pass you often on the sides of the narrow street.
Day 2: Higashiyama & Fushimi-inari
The historic region of Higashiyama to the east of the city center is nestled in mountain foothills, and claims some of Kyoto’s oldest and best-preserved buildings. Spend a day here exploring temples and historic streets after visiting the iconic Fushimi-inari south of town.
EARLY MORNING
Fushimi-inari Shrine
If the Kurama to Kibune hike was my favorite adventure in Kyoto, then this mountaintop climb through crimson torii gates is a very close second. While the area can be appreciated just from its shrine grounds, the real treat is the two-hour walk to the top of Mount Inari. Start as early as 7 or 8 am to experience it without crowds.
We arrived via the 25-minute JR line train from Kyoto and begin our exploration at 7:30. The main hall, giant red gate and fox statues around the grounds are worth checking out before you start the hike, or you can leave them for after the trail gets busy later on.
Dedicated to the god Inari, a patron of business, the shrine and its mountain pathways honor Shinto traditions with rows of 10,000 red torii gates donated by organizations.
The journey is surreal and beautiful. In the early morning, there are just enough people around to get your photo taken by someone, but at times you will be alone under the rows of gates, dappled with morning light through the forest leaves. Foxes, miniature shrines, stone altars and shopfronts decorate the sides of the path as you ascend.
There is a view overlooking the city about halfway up. From here, you can head back down or continue to the summit. There is an interesting cluster of stone shrines at the top.
EARLY LUNCH
Nishiki Market
For a lunch break, look no farther than the covered rows of Nishiki Market. While technically not in Higashiyama, it’s a quick walk from the train station or across the Kamo River.
Bring plenty of coin change and have fun. A popular choice here is a quail egg-stuffed octopus on a stick, and while I didn’t grab one of these, I did have grilled octopus and green onion, charcoaled dango, a fish cake with pumpkin, hot buttered scallops and much more.
NOON
Nanzenji
Tucked into the mountainside in the northwest corner of Higashiyama, Nanzenji is a beautiful 13th-century temple with some surprising architecture: A massive entrance gate with a balcony you can climb, and a huge brick aqueduct with a pathway on top.
Nanzenji is a stop on the southern end if you are exploring the Philosopher’s Walk, a beautiful pathway that takes you to and from Ginkakuji (the Silver Pavilion). I had visited before during cherry blossom season and enjoyed it, but decided against it this time around.
AFTERNOON
Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka
The famous lanes of Kyoto’s past draw crowds in rented kimonos and souvenir shoppers. Traditional restored rows of wooden buildings invoke a true feeling of Japan’s past, but the sheer amount of humanity funneling through reminds you that it is, indeed, modern day.
Duck into a store or grab a coffee to refuel and relax. We waited a few minutes for a drink and some beans to take home at the beloved Arabica.
AFTERNOON
Kiyomizu-dera
The venerable hillside temple is a majestic sight, integrated into nature with an impressive veranda overlooking Higashiyama below. The complex includes a walk through its dark, wooded interior, heavy with the smell of incense, and outdoor paths by waterfalls, a hand-washing ritual and gorgeous pagodas.
If you are visiting during any of this grand temple’s “Illumination” night-viewing dates, make sure this is an evening destination instead. My first visit during March at night was truly magical.
Currently, Kiyomizu-dera’s hall is covered with restoration scaffolding, but is still accessible and worth a visit.
NIGHT
Gion & Pontocho Alley
Evening is an excellent time to explore two of central Kyoto’s dining and entertainment areas. The Gion District is famous for its geiko sightings, wood merchant structures and high-class eateries, especially around the Shirakawa area, lit strikingly at night. I saw a few geiko taking pictures with their businessman clients.
Across the Kamo River, nearby Pontocho Alley isn’t a district, but a narrow walkway packed with dining, drinks and patrons out for an evening stroll. I had booked reservations in advance for a traditional kaiseki dinner—a pricey but gourmet multi-course meal, prepared and delivered to us at a bar where we took off our shoes and sat on floor cushions.
Our chefs were wonderfully friendly, offering their best English attempts at the descriptions of fish, pickled spring vegetables and savory bites that graced our plates one after the other. Armed with a plastic-wrapped English to Japanese dictionary, we managed to puzzle some things out. It was my most memorable meal and a great end to our Kyoto trip.
