GO EARLY.
Wait, sorry. That part is supposed to come later, after the intro. I am just so eager to share our fortune as early risers.
Anyway. I’m almost embarrassed to mention this, but despite living relatively near Bryce, Zion, Arches, Canyonlands and the Utah’s other showy rock formations, I hadn’t been to any of them until this week. There’s hardly anything I haven’t seen in Arizona, but for some reason the “Mighty Five” across the border hadn’t made it on the list yet.
Finally, it all came together to visit Zion: with my friend’s National Parks Pass, with a home base in nearby St. George with relatives, and on a trip already planned to Salt Lake City.
Only problem? It was August. Although I’ve embraced my desert home and warmed my internal temperature so that I need a jacket in 65 degree weather, I can’t hike if it’s over 80. The summer is also peak season when families and international travelers descend on the parks en masse. Still, it was an opportunity not to miss. And it all worked out beautifully.
Here’s what we did in the August heat with two days in Zion National Park. (Note: Angel’s Landing and the Emerald Pools, two popular trails, were closed from storm damage during my visit.)
Logistics
The park moves to a shuttle-only approach through the canyon in the busier months, so you’ll need to park your car at the Visitor’s Center lot and hop aboard. At 8 am, there was a small line forming and the parking lot was filling up (and by our return to the lot around noon, it was completely full). Shuttles run frequently and stop at each of eight points where hikers can access the lodge, viewpoints or popular trailheads.
GO EARLY.
Ok, now it makes sense to say it. Before 9 am, everything was beautiful. Your busload of early risers sets off on the trailhead together, naturally spreading apart until you’re enjoying the scenery almost alone. A cool breeze refreshes you and faint fingers of sunlight glance off the opposite canyon walls. But on the way back, as crowds arrive and the sun comes up, it’s another story.
Where I had been enjoying a challenging uphill climb in early morning light with my partner, now toiled dozens and dozens of hikers in the harsh afternoon sun. Where an open canyon was fun for a quick picture and leisurely pace on the way through the Narrows, now traipsed hundreds and hundreds of people crossing the water, many with bare feet (?!). The shuttle stops were packed with families and visitors. On the way out of a trailhead, a man behind me marveled to his friend about the crowds, “This doesn’t even look like the same place we started.” And then I almost ran into the back of a guy trying to take a picture of a squirrel.
I am not saying it’s not beautiful when there are so many people. Or that it’s not worth it. But if you can get up and get going before 9 am, you are going to have an exceptionally better time than if you rolled up later.
Day 1
Observation Point
Stop 7 | 8 miles out-and-back | Our time: 4 hours
Angel’s Landing was closed from storm damage to the trail, or I wouldn’t have chosen this alternative. But I am actually glad we ended up on it instead. The top point is actually higher and looks down at Angel’s landing, with incredible views back into the park. It was a rewarding trail with lots of surprises as you progress.
You gain elevation off the bat climbing switchbacks, then level off in a high-walled side canyon with a short slot. This is your last chance for real shade if you come later in the day, as the remainder of the hike is another set of exposed switchbacks that don’t relent for another 1,000 feet up.
We reached the sandy rim of the cliff, and on the level path out to Observation Point, I thought I saw another hiker turn the corner toward us. But it was a fully-grown bighorn sheep, maybe 15 feet away! I didn’t get my camera out in time, but it left us both in awe. The view was incredible, but I almost was more impressed by the wildlife encounter.
We’d only used two hours to get up, so I allowed myself some more play time with the camera down in Echo Canyon. Bedraggled uphill hikers in the afternoon sun were already exhausted and they hadn’t hit the tougher switchbacks yet.
When we reached the front face of the rock and were making our way down, it was finally obvious where you could look for Observation Point up above and even see some distant bodies. In this picture, it’s where the red streams on the cliff seem to start.
Weeping Rock
Stop 7 | .4 miles | Our time: 15 minutes
We turned right at the junction after finishing Observation Point for a quick detour to Weeping Rock, which I had seen from the switchbacks. It was busy since the accessibility made it popular with families, but it was worth the look. It’s hard to tell from the pictures, but a steady drizzle of water creeps off the lip, and to everyone inside it looks like rain.
Court of the Patriarchs
Stop 4 | 100 feet | Our time: 5 minutes
A quick stop on the way back to the Visitors Center, this short paved trail offered a nice view of some prominent peaks bearing names of biblical patriarchs.
Day 2
The Narrows
Stop 8 | 7 miles | Our time: 4 hours
Our gear for this included neoprene socks, water shoes and trekking poles, all of which I’d recommend in any cold water hike. We lucked out and got to explore this famous slot canyon the day before a rainy forecast closed it to hikers. The approaching trail is called the Riverside Walk, which our group of bus riders moved through quickly to get to the real treat.
I’ve hiked through a creek where you are up to your knees most of the way, and where fantastic canyon walls framed your experience, but nothing even remotely this beautiful. The joke in our group was “one more corner,” increasing our turnaround point time just to marvel at whatever was next. The scenery shifts and changes; patches of sunlight strike at different angles; boulders and water change color. I got a different “mood” from every twist in the hike.
And while traipsing and picking your way through the stream is technical work requiring your attention, it’s not as inherently exhausting as an uphill climb. I had an almost spiritual experience in here, especially in moments when packs of hikers had split off and we had stretches of canyon to ourselves.
It was slow-going and reflective hiking, where we had good conversation and weren’t out of breath . In the current water depth, I barely got to the bottom of my shorts in one section. We asked around and determined we’d made it to the portion known as “Wall Street”—it was a good bet considering how the walls narrowed in. We turned around here and ate some lunch.
On the way back, I didn’t get my camera out even once. People were gushing our way like a tap had been turned on. The sun touched down in places I didn’t remember and a warm breeze hit us, and as we got closer to the trailhead, we found ourselves walking single file in huge crowds to cross the creek. Families that couldn’t come farther in found places to play and cool down in the water here. The people I didn’t understand were visitors a mile or so in with their sneakers in their hands and no sticks, hobbling and wobbling with arms outstretched across the rocks.
My advice is, again, to go early. We started at 9 am and it was beautifully cool and spacious. If there is rain in the forecast, just don’t do it. I remember watching this video of people forming a human chain to get out during a flash flood.
Canyon Overlook
Parking Lot outside the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel | 1 mile | Our time: 20 minutes
I’d seen some pictures from this short hike, so we stopped just on the other side of the long tunnel on Rte 9 for a quick visit. It was midday and fairly hot, but a fun trail on a rocky sandstone canyon. The view at the end looking into the park and at the switchbacks you just drove up is beautiful.
Zion Mt. Carmel Scenic Byway
To head home to Arizona, we continued on Rte 9 after the tunnel. The road winds through red and white rock formations dotted with trees, with stops for viewpoints of some of the buttes. It was a gorgeous drive, topped off with our second bighorn sheep sighting!
Have you been to Zion yet? Share your thoughts or stories in the comments!
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