No phone data. No rush. No nonsense.
I recently got to disappear into one of my home state’s most beautiful natural bounties, for two of my favorite activities: hiking and camping in Olympic National Park.
When my Seattleite friend and I were planning the trip and deciding on activities, she posed: “Lake, mountain, beach or rainforest?” Bless you, you beautiful PNW.
If you’re interested in a relaxing escape from life’s responsibilities into the embrace of mossy trees, rugged beaches and lush campsites, read on.
Falls Creek Campground
I usually opt for dispersed camping, but timing and location necessitated designated spots. I’m so glad it did—the peace of mind from driving in with a reservation, and the area’s sheer beauty and privacy, made this a place I would come back again.
Our spot was number 20, and our site looked out over the eponymous Falls Creek, a tributary of nearby Lake Quinalt. I was gently lulled to sleep that night by the sound of this water.
Graves Creek Campground
The next morning, we moved to set up camp early at Graves Creek, a first-come, first-served site arrangement along the roaring Quinalt River. On a Friday morning, it was filling up; by the next morning it was packed in. But spacious sites gave us elbow room and a fantastic spot for a hammock overlooking the river. Bring all the water you’ll need and expect at least a basic pit toilet.
After an hour in the car, we appreciated the convenience of walking just .4 miles to the Graves Creek Trailhead. Hikers have the option of heading southeast along the Graves Creek route, or northeast following the Quinalt River. Our gang (and the dozens of backpackers hauling out to the Enchanted Valley, 13 miles away) chose the latter.
Our destination was “as far as we could get past Pony Bridge.”
Enchanted Valley Trail to Pony Bridge
The 5 mile out-and-back path wound us along river canyon walls where blue glacier water swirled below. We ate in-season salmon berries and blackberries and kind of in-season blueberries, passed twittering birds and millipedes hustling across the trail, and spotted plenty of flowers and ferns.
Pony Bridge extends over a rocky bank that’s definitely worth clambering down to. I could hardly believe the vibrancy of green life clinging to the rock walls, the glacial blue rush of the river under a white-washed fallen log or the delicate fingers of water falling over spongy moss.
Fire Creek
We walked a mile past the bridge to Fire Creek, stopping at overlooks of the river along the way. The bridge was a great place to pull up a seat and have a snack before turning around.
Kalaloch Beach and the Tree of Life
The morning after our hike and second night of camping, we set off for the coast. I’ve always adored the misty, windswept beauty of Washington and Oregon’s beaches. We walked past Kalaloch Campground to the beach access, where barren trees lay scattered in the sand and the ocean reflected a moody sky. Just a short walk to the north was the Tree of Life, sprawled like a kraken over the maw of an eroded cave.
I hope this inspires you to get to the PNW, pronto—or as the bumper sticker on a car on the highway to Seattle suggested, to WAnder.
Leave me a comment: What’s your favorite part of this national park? Where else do you recommend hiking and camping in Washington?
Get a print of the artwork I made inspired by this trip.
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