Babad Doʼag.
The native O’odham word for Mount Lemmon, the tallest peak in the Santa Catalinas, sounds straight out of Lord of the Rings. It’s modern day moniker isn’t bad either; “Lemmon” isn’t a misspelled citrus, but a botanist who was the first white woman to ascend the mountain. She hiked it on her honeymoon—a girl after my own heart. It’s one of the few mountains actually named for a woman.
The whole existence of the Catalinas is magical to me. Tucson, the nearest city, sits below at an elevation of 2,600 feet. In an hour up the Catalina Highway, on the scenic Sky Island Byway, you’re suddenly at 7,700. You can even continue on to reach the true top at 9,000 feet.
The temperature drops 20+ degrees. Pine trees line camp sites and hiking paths. There’s a tiny town with a population of 40 called Summerhaven where summer campers pop in for general store refuels and skiiers launch onto slopes at Mount Lemmon Ski Valley.
You are 77 miles as the crow flies (Tolkien words are just in my head now) from the border of Mexico in the heart of the Sonoran Desert. And yet somehow, you’re wrapped in this high-desert wonderland of songbirds, foliage and panoramic views.
As you’re driving up, keep an eye out for hard-working bicyclists puffing their way to the top, and pull over for a look at Windy Point. There’s a cool outcropping to hike out onto, or just take a peek over the edge toward the city.
Camping
We like our camping primitive, so we met up with friends along General Hitchcock Highway where they’d secured an open spot in the woods. If you’d rather have a bathroom like a civilized person, there are plenty of options for designated campgrounds. Just make sure to drive farther up the mountain in the summer where the temperatures are best.
Hiking
Two years ago, I’d come up the mountain for a condensed version of the Lemmon Loop: Start at Mount Lemmon Trailhead at the top (9,000 feet), connect with Lemmon Rock Lookout Trail, wind through Wilderness of Rocks trail, then head up the Aspen Trail (6 miles total).
This time, we started lower at Butterfly Trailhead, intending an out-and-back of about 10 miles toward Crystal Spring. But when you start at only 7,700 feet, and descend all the way down to 6,500, and it hasn’t rained in a while, you remember why you don’t mess around with summer in Arizona—no matter how high up the mountain you think you are.
The temperature was already creeping into the 80s by our halfway point. Upper Butterfly led to a junction with Crystal Spring Trail. We walked past amazing views on our way down, wading through waist-high ferns, and stopped for a break by a massive oak tree. There was no water in the canyons and creeks when we passed, which would have been a happy reprieve for our footsore dogs. I loved the foliage and views, but I wouldn’t recommend this trail in summer simply for the last mile stretch, where fires have scarred the hillside and burned up foliage. The result was a very, very hot path.
We reached Crystal Spring Trailhead, mulling over our options for return, as the doggies were done for the day. It was then, on the slopes of Babad Doʼag with our tired steeds, we were offered safe passage by wood elves returning to their home.
And by elves, I mean two incredibly kind women with a truck who 1) had just finished the same hike and 2) were driving to the trailhead where we parked our car, as one owned a cabin nearby. I couldn’t believe our fortune. It was a bumpy return up the hillside where we chatted about life on the mountain and wildfires.
Summerhaven
Back at camp, thunder cracked overhead and we bundled up our belongings before heading into Summerhaven for a well-deserved beer. Well, the one restaurant joint in town wasn’t wild about dogs on the patio. So we dashed under sheets of rain with dogs in tow toward the Cookie Cabin & pizzeria, and dashed back after learning they had never served beer and the pizza kitchen was closed for the day. We were able to stock up at the general store (if you’re into fudge, it’s a claim to fame). My favorite takeaway: A sign selling “lemmonade.”
LIFE’S A TRAIL…
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